MillesimeBio 2024, environmental rigor is a promise kept
musical winesMillesimeBio 2024, environmental rigor is a promise kept
(publication in magazine Sommeliers International N°182 – Mars 2024)
More photos (64 pictures) in the french version
More than 1,500 winegrowers were present at their tasting table, all distributed by drawing lots, with more and more foreign wines from the EU, flawless organization and well-ventilated spaces, very well-regulated services and 3 days full of discoveries ever more refined bacchanalian. Thanks to the news, I was able to continue at a moderate pace, a good circuit of around fifty tables chosen in advance.
For this 31st edition, I chose a targeted group Premium, different properties by trying to create an original menu of poetic flavors, where the sommelier will have the pleasure of sharing their essences with his guests. The prices of these vintages are mostly accessible to all budgets of those passionate about tasting rich in emotion.
Reds, whites, bubbles, varied grape varieties with a plus in the region of Languedoc highlighting the birth of this marvelous show, an adventurous kaleidoscope was my guide for this new visit of eco-friendly exhibitors.
The importance of the terroir and the know-how of the winemaker is crucial in making your own wine without artifice, but rather through passion and knowledge.
I would like to clarify what an organic wine represents and its increasingly essential importance. Organic wines come from organic farming. This is defined by the European regulation of this cited agriculture, a case law which signs a number of restrictive rules in relation to conventional agriculture, including the ban on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides but also on certain products. or oenological processes used in winemaking that are somewhat masking, cheating or denaturing.
It should also be noted that the Court of Auditors of 2022 will specify, based on various studies, that organic farming is the best way to succeed in the agro-environmental transition and to lead farmers towards practices that are more respectful of the environment. This organic production effort combines best practices in ecology and climate action, a high degree of biodiversity, the preservation of natural resources and production standards meeting the demand of a growing number of consumers wishing to provide products obtained using natural substances and processes.
The association SudVinBio signals a real great involvement of Occitanie with an area of 60,000 hectares of vines managed organically, or more than a third of the organic vines in France! All these plots, committed thanks to their leading winegrowers, are living and vibrant witnesses to the ecological transition of the Occitan vineyard as a whole. In this dynamic and modern region, there is even more than elsewhere, a great sensitivity to collecting used bottles thanks to the Montpellier Tourist Office and its 70 collection points. They are then collected and washed in a Lattes factory called Oc’Consigne involved in saving energy and CO2 emissions. The latter is also responsible for redistributing the containers within the winegrowers’ sector in order to give them a new life.
2024 is also the centenary of the publication of the founding manifesto of the biodynamie: the Farmers Course Rudolf Steiner, Austrian philosopher inventor of the method of growing plants while taking into consideration cosmic forces, the Moon and the planets. On this occasion, visitors were able to freely taste a selection of wines from the vintages presented by the 252 certified exhibitors. Demeter and the 88 certified exhibitorsBiodyvin, the two labels of the biodynamie. Some big names from affiliated wineries were presented: Alphonse Mellot (Sancerre), Château des Bachelards (Beaujolais), Beauregard-Mirouze & Pas de l’Escalette (Languedoc), Olivier Pithon (Roussillon), Château de Chambert (Sud-Ouest), Clos de l’Ours (Provence), Domaine de l’Ecu (Val de Loire), Domaine Leccia (Corse), Domaine LMoew (Alsace), Domaine de la Mordorée & David Reynaud (Vallée du Rhône) etc.
According to his concept cited above, Steiner states that lime and nitrogen are carriers of “earth forces” and that silica, sulfur, phosphorus, and metallic trace elements are vectors of “cosmic forces.” In order to influence biological phenomena observed in crops, he teaches how these « forces » can be captured, stopped or delayed. This control of “cosmic forces” is based on the use of “preparations” and on working the soil according to the constellations or the movements of the planets, according to considerations close to astrology.
There are eight preparations “intended to improve the quality of fertilization and to act on various essential processes in nature, in particular elements that it considers key for agriculture, such as silica, calcium, potash, phosphorus, sodium, nitrogen, hydrogen, oxygen, carbon and sulfur. These preparations are sprayed on the soil or on crops, or even used in the production of compost.
Then there are two types of biodynamic preparations: preparations intended to regulate the development of soils and crops (preparation of “horn dung” and “horn silica”), and preparations intended to promote the composting processes of organic materials. These are made from medicinal plants generally associated with animal organs.
On this occasion of the centenary of biodynamics, the Austrian winegrowers supervised by the Austrian Wine organization, came in large numbers to celebrate this moment of sharing off the Show. A well-known Montpellier wine bar, Le Verre à Soi, where I was able to discover 2 talented young winemakers, was the rallying point.
One is Johannes Trapl and its affiliated vintages Demeter, from the Niederösterreich region in the Carnuntum appellation in the far east of the country. I was able to better taste his work thanks to the standTastes of Austria & Partnersduring the show for a much better approach to the quality of his poetic and communicative work in bottles. Wines from a limestone terroir, low in alcohol, of great purity, which appealed to me, such as the Karpatenschiefer (Carpathian Slate) 2022 vintage with the white Grüner Veltliner grape variety governed by mixed amphorae aging and oak barrels, resulting in a wine with herbaceous notes of honeysuckle, hay, pear, white pepper, citron and tropical fruits.
The other is Bernhard Fisher from Weingut Fisher in St. Anna Am Aigen in the South East of the country in the Steiermark region of the Vulkanland appellation. The 5 2022 single varietal or blend vintages tasted including 2 from St. Anna 2022, Riede Shemming 24 months in used barrels and 2 from Stradenberg (sauvignon blanc, chardonnay or morillon, riesling, alte reben or blend of pinot blanc and gris, welschriesling) delighted me with freshness, salinity, well-directed aromatic tension and minerality, thanks to to the terroir of shell limestone, volcanic basalt, tuff with marine sediments, sandstone exposed South East at low altitude (380m).
This beneficial experience really gives the best impetus to pursue in-depth tastings of the various Austrian vineyards rich in biodynamic cultivation. Little known in France, these digestible modern wines will delight with culinary recipe pairings with seafood, raw or cooked fish and will complete any sommelier’s menu, looking for new taste sensations to share.
Being based in Bordeaux, I start my recommendations of vintages in this region by emphasizing originality, the discovery of new products, complexity, vivacity, sensuality and contrary to preconceived ideas of organic and dynamic organic world, its great aromatic and taste richness brilliantly mastered by these magician winegrowers who respect the vines and their terroirs. They all have the merit of innovation without borders or limits for careful experimental winemaking, in order to reveal the beauty of the wine, like music or poetry of great emotion.
This year, as for around fifteen years, I am following certain winegrowers who are always regular in their work of the soil and the vines, but also young people or newcomers to the Show such as Aurélie Carreau, a talented oenologist who has worked for a long time for an estate niche in Pomerol, Château Beausoleil. This Biodyvin affiliated winemaker took on a challenge by purchasing a micro property in Cambes in the South East of Bordeaux on the heights, with a view of the Garonne. The plots of the Domaine Mons La Graveyre estate are distributed between groves, bushes, hedges where plant and animal life all have their place in serenity, like its unique and free wine . It is an 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in stoneware jars. This Vin de France develops over the last 2 vintages 2021 and 2022 with extremely low yield, deep structured aromas of black fruit with floral notes and fine spice.
In this contemporary style, an area that I had already highlighted last year, the Clos de la Molénie further east of Bordeaux, near Castillon-la-Bataille, Sylvain and Kim Destrieux produce a series of excellent, very affordable wines like this delicious 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, perfectly Loire, a combination of honeysuckle, white peach, mango and grapefruit, aged by mixing eggs in stoneware and acacia barrels.
Then Thierry Valette, at Clos Puy Arnaud did not rest on his laurels, creating a magnificent Silt cuvée of sauvignon blanc 2023 with vibrant minerality, to complete his wonders in red.
In the energetic prism of the Malbec grape variety, the Château du Cèdre with Jules Verhaeghe is not to be outdone with its last 2 Cahors which are dilapidated: L’Extra Libre 2023, a juicy and precise natural wine, aged in concrete vats and tuns; L’Improbable 2023 from a blend of bleeding and direct pressing with 48-hour macerations revealing an infused color, a pretty nose evoking a full of red fruits and a harmonious, long and complex palate. But also a new white Les Grèzes 2023, a blend of Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle resulting in a lively taste with controlled purity.
Going down towards the Pyrenees, the calibrated Jurançons of Clos Lapeyre with Jean-Bernard Larrieu at the helm for his tasty vintages Jurançon Sec 2021 gros manseng, Vitatge Vielh 2020 and Mantoulan 2018 in white blends from native grape varieties.
Then head to Occitanie with the vintages with delightful labels from the Vignobles Arbeau à Fronton (Le Poulpe with its explosive Négrette Syrah) and the Domaine Ciry Cattaneo > carried out by the sharp oenologist David Ciry in the Minervois, gives us a modern tasting of taste with a brand new Deus Sol 2022 in grenache gris with a well-balanced palate, a successful curiosity < strong>Orange 2023 from the same grape variety, the goulue Gargantua 2022 (cinsault, grenache, syrah), the spicy Malbestia 2020 (grenache, carignan, cinsault) , the deliciousness of Les Petites Choses 2020 (tempranillo) and the directness of Sang Neuf 2020 (malbec) Pays d’Oc, Les Hirondelles 2018 ( syrah, grenache) with a subtle nose of Indian ink. A gratifying ensemble, this appellation is not sufficiently appreciated, despite the very serious work that I was able to greatly appreciate here.
In Saint Paul de Fenouillet in Roussillon, these innovative wines from the Bühler Summer couple for the Domaine des Enfants in Côtes Catalanes, have a once again seduced, by their purity and their very distinct character between man and woman, on their terroir and their communication in the bottle. Both faithfully transmit a well-combined sincerity of floral aromas and fruity flavors with an airy and invigorating taste. A visit to the estate is essential as soon as possible to discover the poetry of this vineyard.
The unmissable Domaine des Schistes en Roussillon Tautavel, delights me every year with its multiple vintages, this time, one in Grenache blanc 2022, the new one very well produced for 2022 in Malvoisie grape variety in amphorae in sandstone, fresh, juicy and rich reds for L’Essencial 2022 in Carignan Grenache Noir, Devant le Mas 2021 in Grenache Noir, La Coumeille 2022 in Syrah: a festival of taste echoes for Mediterranean cuisine pairings.
The Domaine de Cébène 2019, 2020, 2021 in Faugères follows its celestial line in bacchanalian beauty for each vintage, I have seen them for several years with the favorite red vintages, Les Bancèls, Felgaria and Belle Lurette.
In the heart of the Hérault department, Frédéric Fages and his multi-plot estate L’Anqueven in Vin de France, with geological diversity and slopes exposed in all directions, has the advantage of great freedom of expression for its micro vintages. I kept in memory this red Le Souffle des Anges 2021 of syrah, petit verdot, grenache, carignan, a blend that he knew how to draw like the resonance of a captivating chant with ear.
The 10th anniversary of Terrasses du Larzac promises to be festive and high-definition drinks. As for a long time, this appellation fascinates me with its quality and its respect for the terroir. Beatrice & Sébastien of Clos du Serres, are vigorously presiding over the appellation, for a new seduction operation in October with the La Soulenque event which will take place in Paris.
Domaine de la Réserve d’O 2019, 2020, 2023 and Frédéric Chauffray, Domaine de Montcalmès 2021 and Frédéric Pourtalié, Mas Cal Demoura 2022 and Vincent Goumard, Mas Combarèla 2020, 2022 and Olivier Faucon, Alain Chabanon Les Boissières 2020 and Saut de Côte 2019, all these masters set a good example in this rising appellation of Oc, with superb vintages of mixed grape varieties resulting in a modern, fresh and impeccably sharp result.
Cédric Ferry for Mas Bressades makes me taste these latest delights in Costières de Nîmes, in the Rhône Valley, the Excellence 2022 vintage, Les 2 Massifs and Quintessence 2021 , reds with exquisite, fresh and straight juice. Without forgetting a niche wine whose terroir overlooks the Cévennes, the Mas Dervenn in Martignargues in the Gard, fervently offers its natural vintages of Syrah or Alicante and more.
The Domaine Sérol in Côte Roannaise confirms its favor with Stéphane Serol for the Chenin de maceration and Chez Muron vintages. Louis Saladin in Ardèche expresses himself skillfully in red with Haut-Brissan (grenache) and Chaveyron 1422 (syrah, viognier).
In Côte Rôtie, in Condrieu, the illustrious Maison Clusel-Roch, the rare Clos de la Bonnette remain unmissable, alongside the Pistols underground Unaffiliated Gangloff of which I am « aficionados », fantastic deities of the land. In Chateauneuf-du-Pape, in St Joseph, in Crozes, the providences Beaurenard 2016, 2021, 2023 of the Coulon family and Aléofane 2022 by Natasha Chave remain the object of all my attention every year, tudobem!
Also, François Villard and his line of magnificences remain each year in the top 5 of these appellations Crozes, St Jo and Condrieuin the Rhône Valley, thanks to its pure approach to terroir in a bottle. The olfactory and gustatory lyricism of its wines will certainly be reflected wonderfully in food and wine pairings.
Essere come il prezzemolo! Towards Italian terroirs, San Polino Brunello di Montalcino, Valentina Cubi in Fumane, Albeisa Barolo, La Dama & Roccolo Callistoin Amarone, Cascina Vengore in Veronarepresent Italy in its haute couture taste brilliance of Nebbiolo, San Sangiovese and for in short, digestible, musical, poetic and fresh wines with virtuous tension.
The Burgundies pinot noir of the lords Seguin-Manuel 2020, 2021, 2022, Sylvain Loichet 2022 & Giboulot 2022 follows their multiple range of young reds, always with the ultimate precision in both fruity and floral aspects.
To make you want to attend this show there are many generous and honest wines such as the champagnes Vincent Couche, Solemme, Remi Georgeton, the Alsatians Paul Ginglinger, Louis Sipp, who are among the great magicians of their appellation.
In the Loire, rich in splendor, I tasted again the modern and ethereal wines of Luneau-Papin, of the Domaine de l’Ecu, Le Fay d’Homme in Muscadet, by Patrick Baudouin in Anjou, by Xavier & Agnès Amirault in St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil with 2 new well-orchestrated 2022 vintages from La Ferme des Fontaines (chenin and orange wine), from Domaine de Huards in Cour-Cheverny, from Domaine Philippe Gilbert in Menetou-Salon, all highly recommendable for their wisdom and dexterity. The Sancerre wines of Vincent Gaudry and of François Crochet are also in the spotlight, for their fabulous, mineral and straight whites.
Then to close, these very varied wines in Dao, little Portuguese Burgundy, from Casa de Mouraz transported me to candid happiness with their wide floral and fruity range. The Spaniards Finca Torremilanos sign the honor of the appellation Ribera del Duero with venuousness and nobility, Gran Viu Menguante en Carinena with a white grenache vintage and a red vidadillo slapped me with euphoria, to discover quickly!
With the echo of spring, the taste buds are active with joy for certain 2023 rosés southern without untimely sweetness, straight and mineral, thirst-quenching, such as those of Domaine du Loup Bleu “Vol de Nuit” in Côtes de Provence, Domaine d’Eole in Côteaux d’Aix, Château de Sannes in Luberon, Domaine Terres des Sables “La Sagne” in Camargue and l essential aromatic of the Domaine de l’Ile in Porquerolles.
I had the opportunity to attend the Unusual Beer Duo Masterclass (2600 breweries in France) & French raw milk cheeses with phenomenal varieties, supervised by zythologist Elisabeth Pierre of the Académie Bierissima. I retained 2 interesting pairings linking aromas, textures and flavors. Indeed, the similarities of refining by lightning, by brewing, by yeast and by cellar, succeed in revealing an emotional experience of certain interest. The Hefeweisen 6.1% wheat beer “La Rieuse” from the Blessing brewery in Alsace combines brilliantly with fresh cheese such as Brillat-Savarin or fresh goat’s cheese, the note of coriander from the white foam swirls on the covering freshness of the youthful cheese. Maroilles du Nord made with cow’s milk, with powerful aromas and a magical sweet taste like a Druid in action, blends into the exceptional with the triple drink Orgemont at 8.5% with notes of citrus, coriander and ginger.
« A l’année prochaine car j’en ai oublié! »
And have a good Bacchanalian musical journey in harmony with the beauty of wine. I hope that each winemaker will find their piece, which will reflect their work in harmony, and let me know, don’t hesitate!
1.Marvin Gaye / Mizell Bros « Where are we going? » 1976
2.Donal Byrd / Mizell Bros « Stepping into tomorrow » 1975
3.Bobbi Humphrey / Mizell Bros « The trip » 1975
4.The Ellis Hall Group « Those passing words » 1978
5.The Intruders « Be thankful for what you’ve got » Rahaan edit 1974
6.Sad Ghost « Sad ghost…for real » 2009
7.Mistura Pura « Vamo vive » 2022
8.Malazz « Lélé » 1977
9.Chris Rhodes Band « Gotta new lease on love » 1978
10.The East St.Louis Gospelettes « Have a talk with God » 1977
11.Jimetta Rose & The Voices of Creation « Answer the call » 2022
12.Sault « God is love » 2022
13.Gabriels « Tabu » 2023
14.Harold Sutton & The Crusaders « U got the power » 1985
15.Flashbaxx « Brooklyn love boat » 2022
16.Quantic « Tikurin » 2023
17.Allysha « Let it! » 2022
18.Alex Kassian « Strings of Eden » 2022
19.Lonnie Liston Smith Jazz is dead « Love brings happiness » 2023
20.Maxx Traxx « Don’t touch it! » 1982
21.Congress « Neptune » 1983
22.Alan Kaufman « Ivory fantasy #1 » 1979
23.Quiet Storm « Only you – part 2 » 1980
24.Steely Dan « Your gold teeth » 1973
