For its 28th edition of 3 consecutive days, MILLESIME BIO Wines and Spirits 2021 Show was a most innovative and efficient moment.

Indeed, because of the health context that we know well, the challenge was great!

And it was brilliantly noted by the implementation of a 100% digital platform on the dates originally planned for the show.

Thanks to this adaptation, all professionals in the sector (sleepers, buyers, traders, professionals of all types around wine and spirits) were able to register on the platform a fortnight in advance, with more than 350 exhibitors and have access to all their media (technical sheets, photos and videos) published.

The automated diary on the registrant’s profile runs smoothly and for my part, completely filled from 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. almost without interruption.

On the opening day while surfing the Virtual Show, we had access to more than 1000 booths because many exhibitors had not filled out their cards beforehand.

During these three days, I was able to converse in « video », or chat, directly with the winemakers of each estate, after some digital manipulations.

The few bugs encountered at the start-up also made the charm of the risk-taking of the visionary organization, which however could be done by phone.

The advantage of this solution was the discovery, the walk in the aisles of the salon as well as the meeting of the winemakers in peace, taking the time to go through all the information shared upstream and thus target the interviews.

At the same time, several conferences could be followed live in the same way.

The richness of the content on offer has almost made us forget the frustrating side of not meeting and tasting on a stand!

Indeed, it was possible according to specific choices, to be able to have pro samples delivered whether in an area of purchase, distribution or communication, in order to continue his work under truly optimal conditions.

Anyway, a method that for me is a great success, as well as for the platform given the visits, transactions made and those in progress.

Moreover, the event was open again for 2 days on March 18 and 19, in order to continue on all the wines awarded Challenge MillésimeBio 2021 with the same system of digital dating in « video ». We’ve been there!

A little bit of music chosen to emphasize the beauty, the complexity, the purity, the vivacity, the harmony, the sensuality of wines or spirits tasted according to the Wine4Melomanes concept:

Floating Points, Pharoah Sanders & The London Symphony Orchestra

Promises – UK 2021

Movement 4

Movement 5

 

Finally, here is my taste impression summarized of the wines I selected, after receiving them directly from several French and European domains with which I spoke.

I chose a European series of whites and reds that are complex and perennial enough, so that sommeliers can make high-quality food and wine pairings.

In order to sharpen the taste buds, I started tasting in Spain, in the Catalan region, with 3 vintages of Celler Aixalà Alcait in red of the appellation Priorat with exemplary acidity delivering the freshness of the wild black fruit with fine smoky and liquorice notes. The funky cuvée « De Strank is » 2018 stands out from the other 2 with a disconcerting touch of mouth of seduction. Its big sisters, well stretched and mineral for Pardelasses 2017, more aromatic typical for Les Clivelles de Torroja 2018, are intended for haute cuisine and carafe service on the most beautiful tables with a very attractive value for money.

Then the Barcelona estate Alta Alella delivers 2 well-corseted vintages, one Cau d’en Genis from the Pansa blanca grape with fennel aromas with a gourmet saline mouth, the other Dolç Mataro’, a delicious and fresh complex red sweetness (following the service T-C) in symbiosis around prune, candied date, very ripe black fig.

 

In France, I start with southern wines, such as Domaine des Schistes in Côtes de Catalanes or Côtes du Roussillon, which I wish you to discover its rich and delicate range, where the white and grey grenache vintages are superbly aromatic. For the dry there is Le Parcellaire Casot d’en Gora 2018 (melon, peach, pear, saline, mineral), to follow the powerful Upper of the Solera de Rancio sec Algo (nut, bitter almond, balsamic oxidative, mushroom), and we head to the detonating Dry Rancio in small vial and the sweet Solera Rivesaltes sublimated by the dried fig.

Then the parcel line of fresh reds where precisely and tensely combine carignan, grenache and syrah for the cuvée La Coumeille en Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2018 (black and red fruits, power), the Caune cuvée d’en Joffre en Tautavel 2018 (minerality, citrus zest, balance), the cuvée Devant le Mas en Maury sec 2018 (black grenache, lladoner peel) reveals an aerial taste facet of the estate on this vintage and the natural sweet wine Maury La Cerisaie 2019 (sweet chocolate red and black fruits on the right note).

Domaine Modat « here and there » 2019 Côtes du Roussillon is an alliance of grenaches, macabeu and white carignan while balanced with the right tension with notes of smoked mango, appetizing and ideal for restoration whose logo sticker « d-M)3 » will never be old-fashioned!

Next, the 2 red vintages « as before » 2016 and « without further ado » 2018 in Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany deliver fleshy wines on black fruit, plum, liquorice and smoked black pepper, all with well-governed acidity.

In Saint-Chinian, Mas Cynanque offers an excellent Althea cuvée, a blend of roussanne, vermentino and grenache aged 10 months in sandstone jars, which combines intensity and freshness.

The 2 vintages in red that are Nominaris (syrah) with cocoa power fused with zan and Carissimo (carignan) more in the finesse of a great chocolate raw with milk.

Near the gorges of the Herault, on the mountains of the listed village of Saint Guilhem-le-desert, the winemaker Olivier Faucon for the Mas Combarela with the cuvée « Des Si et Mi » 2018 in white grenache, perfectly adjusts the fruit and flower on the nose as in the mouth with tension.

The series of reds « Des Si des Mi » blend of Languedoc 2019, « Les Vieux Mazets » in Carignan, « Le Clos Secret » in Cinsault, all 2 in IGP StGuilhem and « Ode to the Ignorant » in Terraces du Larzac are full of gustatory fervor fusing with subtle spices, fresh fruit, where the elegance of the winemaker’s know-how with his terroir is no doubt.

Further east, the Côte Roannaise delivers us an exceptional white viognier on granite for Domaine Sérol and its vintage « Oudan de Butte in white 2019 » where the Victoria pineapple with apricot notes invigorated by a successful tension in the mouth.

Their 4 vintages of reds « Perdrizière, » « The Millerands, » « Granite Shard » and « Chez Muron » in amphoras sign a Gamay of excellence where the ethereal fruit empyreumatic that are just waiting to be consumed.

In Lirac, the Domaine de la Mordorée and its red cuvée « The Queen of the Woods » 2018 signs a mastery of black fruit, empyreumatic and spice with great freshness since many vintages.

In the Rhone, Natacha Chave and her Aléofane cuvée en Crozes-Hermitage 2019 has succeeded in her bet to obtain a dense, perennial and pure elixir with this evil syrah that will cure you of all evils. Black fruits, spices, eucalyptus, liquorice and some smoky essences give an ideal complexity for a match and wine around game for example.

In Burgundy, the Mâconnais parcels of the Domaine Senaillet by the duo Martin in Saint-Véran, Les Rochats and Les Buis 2018 give sparkle to this appellation where chardonnay is king.

Then Domaine Seguin-Manuel signs in haute couture, their mirific cuvées 2018 Clos des mouches in Beaune 1st Cru and Les Clous en Meursault, with complex mouths, volumic and long in caudalies, navigating between the richness of luxurious fragrances and mineral tension. Its high-flying red parcel cuvées such as the new in-kind zero sulphite, brilliant and fresh in Savigny-Lès-Beaune 2017 – 19,  « Bressandes in Beaune 1st Cru 2017, « In the Commons » in Vosne-Romanée 2018 – 16 and  « Little Noizons » in Pommard will arouse you with an extreme desire the discovery of this magical grape with caressing sensuality: the pinot noir where it is astral here , when raised, vinified by the hand of a master.

Then in Savigny-Lès-Beaune, J.M Giboulot has 2 vintages one of the same name, the other Haute Côte de Beaune whose frankness and freshness with spicy notes for the 2019 delights our appetite.

The 4 parcels vintage 2019 in red « King’s Clos » in Beaune 1st Cru, « Les Grands Liards » in Savigny-Lès-Beaune, « Aux Gravins » in Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1st Cru and « En Brescul » in Pommard support the undeniable quality of this estate where ash spices adjoin the bewitched noble berries of grapes grown in the passion of the terroir.

Dominique Gruhier at the Domaine de l’Abbaye du Petit Quincy in Epineuil with a triptych of 2 Pinot noir cuvées, one named L’Ame des Dannots surprising finesse with dense red fruits and crunchy, the other parcel Cuvée Juliette raspberry adjoining cranberry, with mineral governance with superb acidity; the 3rd in Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre with rich fruity complexity well rounded declines grapefruit, vine peach, pear, pineapple and papaya.

In Alsace, J.B Adam’s Riesling in old vines 2017 Kaefferkoff Grand Cru gives amplitude to the terroir with fruity grace combined with a fine hydrocarbon sensation. The pinot noir raised in 2017 vintage oak barrels has been chanting the power of the work of this biological field for many decades.

Domaine Simonis on the same Grand Cru also signs the rich and more exotic Gerwuztraminer 2017, very suited to international star food pairings.

 

In Austria, Domaine Huber en Traisental with its exceptional cuvée in a bottle of blackened terracotta, « Metamorphosis-e » the native grape variety Gruner Veltliner by merging the floral (jasmine) and the fruity (citrus and white fruits) in alpine purity.

Then Andreas GSellmann in Burgenland, offers several dry, refreshing and fine vintages such as the orange wine Traminer with a successful honey nose or the Grauburgunder (pinot gris) resourcing around the melon and pear.

Its « Ried Gabarinza » cuvée of the same appellation, offers a generous « kirsché » wine that combines 3 grape varieties including merlot.

Finally, Domaine Sepp Moser in the Kremstal region offers its famous Gruner Vetliner Schnabel Reserve 2019, which is the fresh scent of pineapple, apple, melon, and crushed minerals. Its red single-varietal Reserve Zweigelt 2018 in the Region of Neusiedlersee expresses a pleasant balance of black and red fruits with fine notes of cedar, the whole fresh and perfect from the opening of the bottle.

 

In Hungary, the 2018 Gold Medalist Tokaj Hétszolo Dry Furmint harmonizes the tasting with salinity, pear, green apple and lime. Next, the 2010 Aszu 5 puttonyos fuses bitter orange, candied apricot and smoked honey with hydrocarbon notes, a must « sweet » taste!

 

A hook to Italy to discover the wines of the Friule region bordering Austria and Slovenia, on the adriatic sea. The Tenuta Stella estate with classy communication, develops in the small Collio appellation near Triestre, a series of whites 2018 including the Malvasia grape with rich notes of dried fruit and dried flowers, that of Ribolla Gialla Reserva with vanilla candour, saffron with notes of smoked bacon, then Friulano 2019 with mineral complexity combined with citrus fruits , with notes of cider with a length on the bitter almond. In the name Venezia Giulia, the Sdencina Rosso cuvée with spicy wild black fruits mixed with balsamic notes, crowns the resplendent fluidity of the vintages of this area to discover.

Then in Piemont in Cisterna d’Asti, Cascina Vèngore, set in an idyllic setting formed by the Terra d’Alfieri amphitheatre valley, grows on small plots with great passion for the natural terroir, the red grape varieties Nebbiolo, Barbera and the white Arnéis. I have retained the extreme finesse resulting from the cuvées with in mind the one made in amphorae called Mignane 2017 where floral, fruit and spice resonate in symphony of delights on the nose as well as in the mouth. Belgardo Terre d’Alfieri Nebbiolo 2016, Mompirone Barbera d’Asti Superiore with chiseled oak barrel winemaking support the know-how of these Italian winemakers, respecting the biodiversity of their estate to perfection, to the point of using exclusively the pure water of the water table in their terroir.

 

We return to France, in the Loire, in Anjou, the kingdom of the Chenin for white wine with Château de la Roulerie which comes in 3 excellent vintages: Les Terrasses 2018 combining rich fruit and tension with a length on the zest of lime, then Magnolia 2019 more saline with a subliminal sensation of tropical fruits, and the Coteaux du Layon 1st Cru Chaume 2018 on suavity thanks to the phenomenon of botrytization of grapes , a sensual delight in the image of a citrus marmalade signed by a great Chef.

Finally, in my Bordeaux region, here is a 2018 vintage of Saint-Emilion in merlot, cabernet franc without sulphites particularly well mastered which I recommend the approach: Château La Forge Celeste is the adventure of an enthusiast, Matthieu Verhaeghe, who proposes a unique concentrated and pure wine where poetic spirit will seduce you for sure.

And in post scriptum, a surprise designed in Charente by ARSpirits Max-O, Madame Vodka Craft with exquisite quinàa as well as at the end of the meal, crowns this report, not to mention the Calvados Claque-Pépin XO by Benoit Louvet, full of tarte Tatin flavors.

 

 

In the second part, I come briefly to greet the medal-winning wines received recently.
It is a septet of vintages such as: the fine golden bubbles fusantes of happiness Champagne Blanc de Noirs of the inescapable goldsmith « bio-dynamic » Fleury whose aerial architecture of pinot noir fuels our appetite, the sensual Venetian elegance of the blend of grape varieties Corvina, Rondinella, Molinera, Corvinone for the Amarone della Valpolicella Classico La Dama 2016 with the disconcerting fluidity of serenity and the unusual but extremely successful tasting for this type of wine , the hidden treasure Les Bancèls 2017 at the Domaine de Cébène de l’appellation Faugères where the shale soil and its syrah vine, grenache, mourvèdre and carignan delivers a wine of great revitalizing purity with fine salinity, the cabernet franc haute-couture of the master winemakers Agnès and Xavier Amirault for their musical cuvée Le Fondis 2017 en Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil where « Led Zep » has only to stand , the Chablis 1st Cru « Butteaux » 2018 from Domaine Jean Collet & Sons where the rich and complex chardonnay from a blue clay terroir suspends our taste buds in grace, the Touriga Nacional 2018 of the Herdade Dos Lagos « ginger-cacaoté » with black fruits expressing its vivacity in sincerity and the syrah cabernet alliance with the freshness combined « snarky kirschée » spicy in Provence for Château Réal Martin (these last 2 wines are to carafer imperative).

Frédéric Beneix – Wine4Melomanes.com (February-March 2021)

(article published in part on Sommeliers International magazine No. 170 Spring 2021)